More thoughts on Corsica Driving
I would appreciate commentary and advice on the following items. I will be traveling to Crosica for 16 days during what I understand to be the worst time of the year tourist wise, the two first weeks of August. We are flying to Bastia and then immediately driving to Bonifaccio. We will stay in this South East region for 6 days. Next, we will stay 3 days in Sartène. For the final part of the trip will stay 6 days in Porto. The last night will be spent in Ajaccio since our flight leaves at 7Am.
I would like some fairly precise information on the driving conditions between these destinations in terms of time and safety. I have read all the driving related threads in this forum so I already have some idea of what to expect. Based on my research, I assume these are the safest trajectories.
Bastia – Bonifaccio (via N193 and N198): This seems to be a safe road and should take about three hours. Aardvark has added the mysterious amendment “but don’t be fooled” on a couple of occasions, but I’m not sure what he means by that.
Bonifaccio -- Sartène: I will actually be leaving from Pinarellu/Porto Vecchio region, so I could take the N196 or the D859 and then the N196. Which of these two routes is preferable? How long will they take?
Sartène – Porto: Judging from the comments on this forum I should take the N196 to Ajaccio and then the N193 heading to Corte. From Corte there is the D84 heading west to Porto. How safe are these roads? Is this the safest trajectory to Porto from Sartène? I also noticed I could take the D81 from Ajaccio to Sagone, then travel inward on the D70 until it intersects with the D84. Any comments on the duration of these trajectories will also be helpful.
Finally, I will obviously be doing some driving around these regions. I understand that I should avoid Porto to Calvi, but that Porto to Piana is fine. What are the most dangerous roads around the regions I have in mind? By dangerous, I mean unguarded roads with steep falls. I think I should be able to handle guarded roads regardless of height, but of course I can’t be sure.
Even if one section of these roads is unguarded and dangerous I would like know about it.
Thanks in advance.
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Hi Klattu72.
I%26#39;m afraid I have to say that if you don%26#39;t think you can handle unguarded roads with drops Corsica is not the place for you. You%26#39;ll find it difficult to avoid them completely.
Im afraid I can%26#39;t remeber individual bits and pieces, just the overall impression.
The N198 is resonably wide, straight and fast. The reason I said don%26#39;t let this fool you is because it%26#39;s just about the only road of any length on the island which fits this description!! The other N roads are quite OK but have in general more bends and often quite steep climbs, so a somwhat slower average speed.
I%26#39;m afraid I can%26#39;t comment on the Bonifacio/Sartene/Ajaccio trip as I haven%26#39;t done it.
But PLEASE do not go to Porto via Corte and the D84. This road includes the Scala di Santa Regina, one of the most terrifying roads on the whole island!
Go via Cargese and Piana, quite a reasonable road the whole way. The road between Piana and Porto goes through Les Calanches, one of the tourist hot spots. The narrow winding road is often choked with traffic including the tourist coaches. It%26#39;s more hemmed in by rock formation than having drops. It%26#39;s a great sight, nevertheless. Find time to stop at Cargese, one of the most welcoming and attractive little resorts on the island. The best beach is just a mile or so away from the town.
I would suggest you condition yourself to the roads and see just what you can tolerate. Drive from Bastia to Bonifacio, and while you are in the south take the D368 into the Forest of Ospedale from Porto Vecchio. Just turn back if you don%26#39;t like it!
Similarly, when in Porto, take the road to Ota or the D84 towards Evisa. Great scenery anyway and again, turn back if you must. Take it slowly on all the roads - just let the speed merchants go by.
You are right - it will be busy!!
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Everything Aardvark says, I%26#39;d concur with. I%26#39;d add a couple of suggested trips whilst in Sartene. If you head towards Propriano and turn West onto the D121 to Campomoro, you%26#39;ll be rewarded by a very pretty run down to the lovely beach and tower at Campomoro. But be careful with parking there - wardens patrol the parking bays. But that apart it%26#39;s worth it.
Also if you head from Sartene to the East along D69 and the D268 to St Lucie-de-Taliano you%26#39;ll again be rewarded with some stunning views from a road whose width and quality deteriorates slowly. Go as far as you feel comfortable with.
I think the problem with Corsican driving is an effort thing. In England I%26#39;m used to driving along roads where a bend is something you have to deal with every 200-300 yds or so. God knows, according to whereabouts in Canada you%26#39;re from it could be that a bend per mile is a novlety. But on Corsica, there is a bend every 40-50 yds and it means that average speeds are a lot lower than you might think.
This makes it more tiring and 100 miles on Corsican road would probably involve more effort than 300 miles along motorways. But if you set your ambitions down a notch and take it easy there isn%26#39;t a real problem. Some of the roads are narrow and some are unfenced but these are the 3rd class roads in the main and the routes that both Aardvark and I have described are all better than that.
Enjoy it!
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Oh dear, Klatuu, I think you ought to put your map away for a minute and remind yourself that you%26#39;re going ON HOLIDAY! At least I presume that%26#39;s your plan - though it does sound as though you%26#39;re dreading it.
My advice to you is to leave plenty of time for your journeys, making plenty of stops to have breaks and look at the wonderful views, and maybe spend a bit of time deciding what to do when you get there.
Be sure to take the boat trip under the cliffs in Bonifacio and do lots of snorkeling around the beaches there. Enjoy the uniquely Corsican atmosphere in moody Sartene. Do lots of walking around Porto. Go and hear some Corsican music - eat some wild boar, and drink some of the local rosé (but not before driving - most of the wines here are quite strong!)
And above all, relax and enjoy it - it%26#39;s a wonderful place.
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Thanks everyone for the great responses. I realize I can%26#39;t entirely avoid the dangerous roads. I%26#39;m just trying to minimize the danger while still being able to enjoy what the island has to offer. Also, I would like to clarify that I don%26#39;t necessarily have a fear of heights or cliffs. Rather, I have a fear of falling off cliffs. I think this is a subtle and important distinction.
Aardvark, the information on the D84 has been noted. I will be taking the coastal route instead. Piana was one of our destinations anyway, though sadly I couldn%26#39;t find a decent accommodation there.
Geoff, thanks for the suggestions. We are looking forward to seeing the beaches near Sartene. I%26#39;m mentally preparing for slower speeds and bends in the road. I%26#39;m already a slow driver as is and relish the opportunity to crawl along, justified in my meandering. So long as I don%26#39;t fall a cliff.
Derek, if this were another time of the year I would probably be more relaxed and willing to see where the cliffs drop me next. But since we%26#39;ve foolishly (though unavoidably) planned our vacation during the busiest time of the year, I%26#39;ve felt the need to reserve everything in advance. It%26#39;s taken me the better part of a week to read, research, e-mail, and call the relevant establishments, but I achieved a sense of peace when the final date was inked. I look forward to walking around mostly, rest assured.
I appreciate all your responses. Any more information on roads to avoid would be appreciated.
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I agree with the earlier posts. I would add that roads are never dangerous in the sense that they come up and attack you. It is the way you drive that makes them dangerous. Corsican locals drive fast when they get the chance and the cliffs are littered with wrecked vehicles (less so than in earlier years I think) but tourists are so scared and so numerous in season that you can seldom go very fast then.
You might give thought to what sort of car you want to rent. Most cars in Europe are manual gearshift and the steering feels very different to US cars - don%26#39;t know about Canada. As you are so concerned about driving, it might be worth your trying out a couple of potential vehicles before you leave. I suggested to my husband he did this before we went on holiday to San Francisco and rented an unfamiliar automatic. He didn%26#39;t, but he wished he had.
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Klatuu -
My little Canadian contribution -
When I go overseas, I try to avoid driving as much as possible. The reason being that the driver can%26#39;t really look at what%26#39;s going by, and what%26#39;s the point in that? I don%26#39;t save and budget in order not to see the countryside I%26#39;m visiting.
I grew up here in the west, learning to drive on our old roads that were about 25% narrower than what we have now. I%26#39;m not the least bit intimidated by mountain passes, coastal drop-offs, snowbanks, black ice, or any of the rest of it, and I still wouldn%26#39;t be driving on that vacation. The photos I%26#39;ve seen make it clear that Corsica is definitely a place with views to savour, and I would certainly give myself a chance to do just that. There must be some form of public transportation that would give you the same opportunity.
Bon voyage.
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I%26#39;ve been going to Corsica every year for over 20 years due to my family living there and the best piece of advice I would give us take the attitude that you are not in a rush and let the locals do whatever they want to do. Just drive at a nice steady pace and let them do the crazy overtaking. That way you will not get too stressed - trust me - I know!
Sartène will take you about an hour to an hour and a half from Porto Vecchio depending on how busy a couple of the main roads are (espcially the main road from Bonnifacio) which tends to be busiest in the morning and from 4.30 onwards as people leave the beaches.
I would recommend just taking it easy as you climb up the mountain as there are so many fantatsic view points worth stopping at. L%26#39;Ospédale is a wonderful spot for a picnic. Lots of forest and of course the dam.
Bastia to Bonnifaccio will take you just over 3 hours as there are a few busy turn offs for beaches especially around Porto Vecchio and the Palombaggia turn off ( one of the best beaches on the island by the way).
Hope that helps.
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