Day 6: Overnight I ditched my plan to visit Versailles today. After visiting Napoleon III’s apartments at the Louvre yesterday, I felt I needed a day to let all that gold gilt settle in my mind before adding more. I didn%26#39;t wanat feel as if I%26#39;d seen it all already, so I decided to leave it until later in my trip.
Instead, I took the bus to Le Bon Marche to take in the wonderful food hall and maybe grab a bargain at the sales (one should buy a handbag in Paris, oui?). By the time I thought to check where the bus stop was (it wasn’t obvious on the way there), I was well past the department store and on my way to the Eiffel Tower. I figured there were worse things to do than see the ET ahead of time (planned for tomorrow), so I just stayed on the bus and enjoyed the wonderful neighbourhood. Then I took the bus back to Le Bon Marche, watching my map the whole way! The food hall did not disappoint, what a fantastic selection of food. I loved the sight of three whole legs of ham held up on diagonal stands ready for cutting, the pastries etc… were all beautiful. The sales didn’t entice, but I had a lovely time just looking. On the way home I jumped off the bus twice to look in shops which looked lovely (I DO love that Carte Orange!). I found a lovely old pharmacy where I bought lots of Caudelie products and beautiful Klorane shampoo (my grey hair now sparkles silver!).
My increasingly regular afternoon rest (shower to rinse off the heat then a doze on the bed %26amp; reading) was all the more enjoyable today with a tartine de pecan and a madeleine (sp?) to eat. I peeled myself off the bed to seek out more adventures. I realised that I was really weary, so tentative thoughts of traversing the city to get to Sacre Coeur were replaced by an easier river cruise from Pont Neuf. This is definitely the advantage of travelling alone – my plans were ever flexible to suit my energies and interests. I missed one cruise just by the amount of time it took me to run down the stairs, but a quiet sit by the river for 20 minutes or so was no hardship. The cruise was lovely and I understand why it would have been good for getting my bearings on the first day. This is one of the few times that I felt a bit lonesome, but not hopelessly so. As I cruised past the Orsay I decided that after the conference I’ve come to Paris for, Id keep one day for the Orsay, and one for Versailles.
I walked back to the hotel (off Blvd St Germain) via some beautiful little shops (just near Pont Neuf) where I was “compelled” to buy myself a beautiful silk scarf (everyone who sees it draws breath and says “ooooh”) and some other little gifts for friends (beautiful note books and pens). I again found myself at an Italian restaurant, this one on Blvd St Germain next to the Cluny where I ate a very ordinary meal made much more fun by the company of an American high school teacher who teaches French.
Day 7: This was my last day of total freedom before I attended the conference. It was my Eiffel Tower day! I had made great plans with a group of friends at home in Australia. There is a webcam focused on the Eiffel Tower, with several cameras zooming in on the North leg. I had arranged that I would be there at 12 noon Paris time waving my luminous green scarf at them and they could watch me from their computers! I went early so that I could enjoy the Tower itself before my “show”. I was a little too keen perhaps and arrived before opening. Again I was so impressed with the efficiency upon opening. I must have been about 80th in line, and I was on an elevator by 9.10. I paid to go to the second stage, but by some quirk I ended up going to the top. Now I must have been a little slow that day because I didn’t realise I was at the top until I came down to the second stage and was looking for the post office (which is on the first stage). It was only when the girl in the souvenir shop explained I was now on the second stage that I realised where I had been … der! I wrote some postcards and relaxed there for quite a while. The lady in the post office was just lovely. Apart from mailing my cards I also I bought a small picture (about the size of two postcards) and asked if she would postmark it. She explained it had to have a stamp to be postmarked, so she chose the prettiest new Opera Garnier stamp for me and carefully stamped it in two places. I will get this laminated and put it on my noticeboard to remind myself that when I work hard I get to go to lovely places (I have one of Neuschwanstein in Bavaria too)!
As I departed the ET, the gypsy girls were out in force, about 20 of them with the “Do you speak English?” phrase and the note in English begging for money. I used the advice from TA and just said “Non” firmly. It didn’t stop them from all approaching me. However, they got a good laugh out of me standing there with my bright green gypsy-looking scarf waving to friends in Australia!!! Sadly none of my friends saw me … I made a complete idiot out of myself for nothing!
Back at the hotel it was time to get a taxi to my new hotel out by the Cite des Sciences where the conference would be held for the next five days. It was a costly trip (€25) and my heart sank as I left behind the inner city beauty and reached the very ordinary area around the venue. The Citea de la Villette apartment/hotel was uninspiring, with staff who seemed disinterested, a room which was very tired (see review) and a cost or deposit for everything including the phone line out. The afternoon was improved by the arrival of my Australian colleague with whom I shared, and an invitation from yet another colleague to met them on the steps of Sacre Coeur and then dinner.
The view from Sacre Cour was just fabulous. There was a service in progress inside and so we quietly walked the periphery of the church (I think it is a real generosity that these churches allow tourists to continue to roam during services). In my diary I wrote “Sacre Coeur leaves me cold …. Too much ego”. I was clearly hard to please that night!
Day 8: We had until about 2pm to ourselves. My friend wanted to get down town and see the river (she’s been to Paris several times before). Neither of us had been to Les Deux Magots, so onto the Metro and straight in on ligne 7 we went… easy. We ate crocque monsieur et madame (I had the latter) for breakfast and enjoyed the early morning calm. We then went our separate ways. I had not realised I would have this day to myself, so I decided to pretend I was on a holiday (!!) and go back to a place I’d really enjoyed. On my way I had reason to stop (okay I needed a loo!) at Le Lounge on Place de Bastille. I ordered a café alonges (my standard order) and I marvelled yet again … not only the coffee, but also heated milk, the chocolate square and a small glass of ice-cold water awaited me. Really lovely.
Onto Rue de Rivoli, and after a stop at Paul for a gourmandise chocolat (you just have to get one) I returned to the garden of the Musee Carnavalet to sit and relax and read. I sat in the other half of the courtyard and not only enjoyed the peace but also the expressions of other people who discovered this garden by accident. I reluctantly left to catch the bus up rue de Rivoli, momentarily side-tracked at the Harmonia Mundi store to buy several CDs. I met my colleague and we ate the most wonderful quiche at a little brasserie just down from the Pont Neuf Metro station. Then back to the ‘burbs to face my work responsibilities for the next five days…..
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Thank you for another lovely post - you write with so much feeling.
But however hard I try I find it really difficult feel deeply sorry for you, having to go to Paris with your job - - - even though ýour conference is in the suburbs !!
Agree as to the Sacré Coeur. I love the sight of it from the outside, especially if you come up the hill from the backside, when it is dark and the church is all lit up. But I too never thought that the interior was anything to write home about - I feel the same about the Madeleine-church, BTW. (and about the cathedral of Helsinki, which is awesomely beautiful from the outside, but absolutely BORING to look at when you enter)
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Eagertogo, thank you for another enjoyable account of your Paris days. That was a good idea to return the the Carnavalet on your last free afternoon and enjoy your favourite spot again while watching others discover it.
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Thanks GitteK ... I like to think that it%26#39;s useful to say such things (re acre Coeur) on this forum, so that others don%26#39;t feel that they MUST enjoy absolutely everything.
Faux ... one of the things that I cherished about the advice I got on TA wa to explore the lesser known places. Now I know the Carnavalet is not exactly lesser known, but everyone I told about it had not heard of it. This and the Cluny were my favs - they just had an authenticity which was special. I also loved that Carnavalet was free, so no cost for repeat visits.
:o)
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