Day 3 was really a work day. I used the Metro for the first time to get to my meeting spot with my colleague, not realising until too late that the Mabillon station is closed for renovations (on reflection it was really clear, but I wasn’t tuned in yet). Walking back from Sevres Babylone station I got quite turned around, but knew I needed to get near to St Suplice, and two separate people were most helpful in getting me there. I was still in time to grab a coffee and pain au chocolat (which at €7,90 was the second most expensive, only to Les Deux Magots!). I have to say that being driven through the round-about at the Arc de Triomphe was one of the more daunting experiences in Paris. What do you mean there are no lines!?!?
When I returned T hotel du College de France at the end of the day, my actual room was ready, and just as pretty as a postcard; I really felt I could settle in here! I was exhausted, but walked up to Rue des Ecoles and ate a delicious bowl of pasta carbonara (%26amp; in Melbourne the Italian food is pretty darn good) at a little Italian bistro near the corner of rue des Carnes (didn’t get name). The waiters were very welcoming and my glass of Coke was wonderfully chilled.
Day 4: I tried breakfast at the hotel. It was just fine, but I really enjoyed taking that early morning walk and eating elsewhere. I planned to go to the Eiffel Tower today, but decided that first I’d walk up the street to the Pantheon where there was no wait to get in at opening. I know others feel differently about this place, but I was strangely untouched by this cavernous place. To me, it felt as if its changing roles through history have somehow fractured the emotional intensity and history. The crypt was interesting, but most attractive because it was cool!
Some time mid morning, my plans for the ET went out the window, and I decided to use a bus to head across to the Marias .. I loved my Carte Orange – just held it up and got on, and watched Paris out the window. I got off at Place Bastille to visit the FNAC music store. My 17 year old had requested European techno and thrash metal music and he would have been in seventh heaven there. On Blvd Beaumarchais I consumed my first and only crocque monsieur which was utterly sensational (though definitely not low fat). I walked 3 minutes to Place de Vosges and sat a little while in that very pretty little park to read and let my lunch digest. Over lunch I’d realised how close I was to the Musee Carnavalet, so once recovered, I headed there (took all of another 5 minutes). My feet were giving me grief and I was a bit weary, so I didn’t enjoy the wonder of this fabulous place as much as I could have. It is free and just an amazing place with exhibits and the home itself is in wonderful condition and beautiful to see. I decide to leave but as I walked down rue des Frances Bourgeois I spied the entrance to the garden. Well this place was my bliss. Small, but exquisite. Most of the people seated around the courtyard that day were artists sketching and painting. I felt like I’d found a secret place (and indeed I snuck back here a few days later).
I finally found a Bureau de Poste and managed to purchase postcard stamps using French! I mailed off about 15 cards using the mailing labels I’d prepared before I left (thanks to a TA poster for that brilliant idea). I cruised rue de Rivoli for a long as my feet would hold out and finally caught the bus back to my hotel. A simple dinner and an early night were much needed.
Day 5 was the early start for the Louvre. I had planned to use a side entrance as recommended by Rick Steve, but because I was so early I didn’t recognise it as an entrance and before I knew it I was lined up outside the pyramid. There were probably a couple of hundred people ahead of me, but we were sitting on the side of one of the pools, the air was cool, the atmosphere calm, and it was great to just sit and admire those astounding buildings from the outside. Once the museum actually opened that line moved incredibly fast. I really admire the teamwork and speed with which they get things started in all the major sites. Buying a ticket at the machine was easy because there were staff there to facilitate. I hadn’t eaten brekky, so a quick stop at the coffee shop in the foyer bought a lovely and reasonably priced meal. The audioguide process took me by surprise because you have to leave a credit card, licence or passport as security. But at €5 it was a fabulous addition to my day. I loved the Louvre much more than I’d expected. There were parts that were so over-run with tourists I was gobsmacked, but there were also much quieter corners where I could sit and soak in the marvel of the collection. I managed a quick close-up glimpse of the Mona Lisa and was surprised how fabulous she was, but here were so many amazing things. I adored the Psyche and Cupid sculpture and the Cour Marly and Puget had the most glorious natural light for its collection of sculptures. The Napoleon apartments were even more astounding than I’d imagined. So much more, but these were the stand outs for me.
I headed home for a much needed rest, and in the evening I ditched a concert at Ste Chapelle for a quiet read in the gorgeous Luxembourg Gardens. The colour and form of these gardens is memorable. I ate a perfect little pizza for dinner (Italian places are cheaper than the brasseries) and dropped into bed. France won the semi-final and everyone is happy!
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I%26#39;m really enjoying your trip reports! Can I ask the name of the garden you refer to after coming out of the Musee Carnavalet?
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I also love your trip reports - and I so agree about this summers flower-beds in Jardin du Luxembourg. I also went there (same week as you) about 19:00 - and I could hardly make myself leave. All those beautiful soft shades of pink, blue and purple - and the wonderful scent from the flower in the air of the warm summerevening. It was so silent, even with the laughter and chatting of the children. A few people were doing tai-chi under the trees - and everything was just peace and harmony. I have walked through the park many times, but I have never enjoyed it so much as that evening.
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AnnetteCinCA - Glad the trip reports and enjoyable. The garden is actually part of the Musee Carnavalet, it%26#39;s just a different entrance from the one I%26#39;d used to go into the museum itself. I%26#39;ll try to post some photos for you.
GitteK - I enjoyed Jardin Luxembourg so much that evening that when friends were trying to decide on somewhere for our Bastille Day picnic I suggested there. I%26#39;ll write about the actual day in my trip report but it was perfect.
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Thanks! I will add it to my %26quot;to do%26quot; list. Hopefully we%26#39;ll have time for some exploring in that area while we%26#39;re there in October. We%26#39;ll be with first-timers, and our time is very limited, but I%26#39;ll get there some day! It sounds beautiful.
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Thank you Eagertogo (back again I am sure), what an interesting trip report.
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I am truly enjoying your reports.
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Hi shoesy, I hope you and yours are all well.
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Hi Faux
Thought of you as I travelled easily and safely into the city from the airport. Your advice was invaluable thank-you!
Days 6-8 now uploaded.
:o)
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