Hi everyone
Will try to get better at editing as I go!
Days 1 %26amp; 2
Arrived at CDG Airport on a flight from Japan at about 5pm. Amazed that I was out the door in about 15 minutes. With a printout of the internet info on the Roissybus in my hand, the person I asked for directions could see what I wanted and pointed me the right way without me having to use any French. The ticket machine needed coins so had to buy ticket on bus, no problems. Quick trip into Opera Garnier, and then I nearly came unstuck. Where was the taxi rank? I walked a couple of blocks till I found one and waited just a few minutes until a very friendly driver (who admired my 30 year old French) came along. Wow …. What a feeling to drive across Paris through all the beautiful streets, across the Seine into the Latin Quarter. I loved that little transition time rather than arriving by the Metro.
The Hotel du College de France was just as I’d hoped from the reviews on TA (have written one too). Small and friendly. There was a problem with the plumbing in the room I’d been allocated, so with great apologies I was put into a room off the foyer for a couple of nights.
After a quick shower, and with some trepidation, I headed out and about 5 minutes later I was standing in front of Notre Dame. I think I was overwhelmed because I really didn’t feel the awe I’d anticipated (this was to change in a later visit). I walked on soaking in the warm Summer evening (came from a cold winter in Melbourne Australia) and marvelling at the number of tourists. I soon reached Ile St Louis, and walking down Rue St Louis en l’Ille, I came across the TA haunt of La Taverne du Sergent Recruteur. I thought this would be a lovely place to eat on my first evening, but I couldn’t seem to attract anyone’s attention to get a seat. So I moved on just a couple of doors to Le Relais de L’Ille where I ate a sensational meal of tournedos de boeuf with fois gras, the best scalloped potatoes I’ve ever tasted and other vegies plus a flute of creamy cold champagne. With a pianist tinkling in the background, the mood was relaxed and when he played something the diners knew, we all sang along. What a lovely way to begin my time in Paris. I decided to have a Berthillion ice cream at the café near Pont St Louis on the way home. Oooh, just one scoop of chocolat noir was sensational and plenty enough for me. By now it was well towards dusk and while I felt entirely safe, I figured I’d head back to the hotel. Imagine my surprise when I looked at the clock in my room and found it was 10pm! I turned on the telly in time to see Thierry Henri score the goal for France, and when the final whistle blew everyone erupted both on the telly and out in the street. How glorious to be in the city at this time!
I never sleep well the first night in a new place, so I was glad my room was comfy and I felt quite settled. Next morning I found a quick light breakfast and decided to try my luck getting in line for the Musee Cluny which I could see down the street. It was the first Sunday of the month and I’d been warned of the queues. When I arrived to find I was third in line, and five minutes later the large red gates opened and we were in for free! This place did not disappoint – what an amazing collection is housed in this ancient place. When I got to the dimly lit room housing the noted ‘La Dame et la Licorne’ tapestries (which I sheepishly admit I’d not heard of) I was pleased that I decided to sit and let my eyes and senses adjust. What an astounding piece of work. But the whole collection is bit like that.
After a short break back at my hotel, I headed off again, grabbing a baguette on the way. I stopped in at the seemingly small St Severin church which is surprisingly large inside. There was a service in progress so I sat respectfully to one side and participated for a little while, joyful that I could join in the singing with the help of the music and lyrics sheets left on seats.
After my morning success I tried Ste Chapelle. The queue for security was short, but inside the queue was longer. I’d decided against a Museum Pass because I knew that doing full-on museums across two days was not for me. I need rest in between. No free tickets here, but the 20 minutes or so in the queue was quite bearable and good people watching time. Here I was stunned by the number of people who came and went faster than the time they’d spent in the queue (my policy became to stay in a place at least as long as that time I’d spent in the queue!). Just as I’d needed to let myself adjust to the dim lighting for the tapestries at the Cluny, I needed to adjust to the brilliance of these stunning windows. The long rows of seating were much appreciated, and I sat on both sides. I would look down for a little while at the details on the walls and then each time I looked up again the glorious colour seemed even more striking.
I visited the quaint Place de Dauphine at the end of Ille de la Cite for a friend who stayed here last year. The green of the trees is so light, it was a lovely place to finish my baguette. I collected my Carte Orange on my way back to the hotel for another little restin preparation for a wonderful concert of Chopin piano music at the oldest church in Paris, St Julien de Pauvre at 6.30. Concerts in these small churches are on almost every night, and offer a light and fabulous way to enjoy the venue and a little culture! You can just walk in off the street. Afterwards I did a rekky to check out a place where I would meet a colleague the next morning at 8am. This took me past St Sulpice (which I didn’t actually go into until my last day) and through some pretty areas. At about 8pm I ended up eating a fairly average salad at Le Twickenham on Blvd St Germain. I am not a walker, but I did all of this just walking because it was all so close to my door. I dropped into bed satisfied with my day.
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thanks for your report - I was in Paris in the same week as you. It was great fun with all the football-partying everywhere - and, yes, it was HOT !
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Lovely writing, you set the mood beautifully. Sounds like a great two days. Makes me wish I were there.
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Our hotel was directly across from St Severin church. I too was surprised at how large it was inside. I thought it was very lovely. Our hotel room on the 5th floor over looked the church so it was the first thing we saw every morning.
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Fantastic report! This has provided me with a wonderful diversion from the news back home.
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I%26#39;m glad you had a most enjoyable visit to Paris. The Musse de Cluny is indeed fantastic as is Ste. Chapelle. They really are %26#39;must sees%26#39;.
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Hi ETG, thanks for the first installment of a very interesting trip report. I am glad you had a great time and you have made me impatient for my October trip.
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Hi ETG, thanks for the first installment of a very interesting trip report. I am glad you had a great time and you have made me impatient for my October trip.
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